Ayvalik is one of the most famous towns on the Turkish coast. It is located opposite Lesvos and is very easy to reach by boat. It is an ideal city for a day trip or a starting point for a road trip to the coast of Central Asia. In this guide to Ayvalik, we’ll look at the main attractions and things to see and do in this small coastal town.
The town’s picturesque location on the Aegean Sea attracts visitors from all over Turkey and beyond. And for those looking for a more cosmopolitan atmosphere, Moschonisia (or Cunda Island) is right next door and can be easily visited by the buses that run daily at all hours of the day.
A little history about Ayvalik Τurkey
Formerly known as Cydonia, meaning ‘place of the quince’, Ayvalik long prospered as an international port exporting goods such as olive oil and salt.
Ayvalik was once part of ancient Aeolia, a region settled by the Greeks as early as 1000 BC. And even after being conquered by the Persians, Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans, the city remained predominantly Greek for much of its history.
After the Battle of Çeşme in 1770, in which the Ottoman navy was decimated by the Russians, a high-ranking official landed in the city. He was taken in and rehabilitated by a Greek priest who was always grateful for his hospitality. And later, when he became Grand Vizier, he granted Ayvalik great autonomy that would last for centuries.
Ayvalik today
The city today has 30,000 permanent residents, and in the summer its population increases greatly. In contrast to Moschonia, Ayvalik at first glance disappoints the visitor, who is confronted with dirty apartment buildings, half-built houses and heavy traffic jams on the main Ataturk Avenue.
But if you continue straight from the port, you will enter the city’s central market. This is where the heart of the city beats. You will come across countless shops for shopping with everything you can imagine – clothes, shoes, bags, etc., many kebab shops, tasteful small cafes and of course many shops selling the famous baklava, from which you should buy several boxes for gifts, but also to devour after your return.
How to go? What currency will you use? What will you eat? You’ll find all this and more in our article:
Ayvalik and Moschonisia: 6 Information & tips for your trip
One reason to visit this part of Turkey is to try traditional dishes, some of which are as familiar as Greek food, but cooked in different ways. So, get ready and travel with a big appetite for a journey of flavors.
1 The Great Bazaar
Every Thursday in Ayvalik there is the big bazaar, where you can buy clothes, carpets, textiles, spices, lamps and anything else you can think of. You will meet many Greeks from Lesvos Island who come very often for their shopping, because in this bazaar the prices are extremely low.
You can issue a Revolut card by clicking this link here.
Read also:
Lesvos Island: 13 places and attractions to visit in 2023
For those who love shopping it will be a good opportunity to visit the city on Thursdays. We, who don’t do very well with the noise and crowds, limited ourselves to a short walk, before getting lost in the alleys towards the Greek quarter.
2 The Greek Quarter in Ayvalik
And while the Greek population may be gone, Ayvalik is one of the best places in Turkey to see preserved Greek architecture from the 19th century.
Follow this link and book one of the accommodations in Ayvalik or Moschonisia, and explore a large part of the Turkish coast.
We couldn’t find a sign leading us to the old Greek quarter, so we instinctively headed up the alleys to the left of the church of Taxiarchis. We were lucky, because after a while we managed to discover it and started to admire the old Greek mansions, which today are painted in various beautiful bright colors, and indeed give a different aesthetic to the city compared to the colorless center. Of course, it was with great sadness that we saw some of them, abandoned, left empty by residents and crumbling.
We were very lucky in our walk, as we were approached by a kind gentleman who showed us the antique shop he was going to open in one of the Greek houses. He had started to do repairs on the downstairs floor, which he intended for a shop and the upstairs floor for a home. In his shop we found many interesting pieces from the 17th and 18th centuries.
You can read also:
Moschonisia: A jewel on the coast of Turkey
He showed us around the Greek quarter and showed us the oldest house that has survived until today, whose construction dates back to 1844. Several of the houses were lucky enough to survive, not only from the effects of the Asia Minor disaster, but also from the many earthquakes that hit the area in later years.
3 Taxiarchis Church
Ayvalık’s top attraction is the Taxiarchis Church, a former Greek church from the 19th century. Unlike most nearby churches that have since been converted into mosques, the Taxiarchis Church functions as a museum where visitors can come to appreciate its art and architecture.
The Church is considered to be the first church of Ayvalik, as such a church was originally established on the site in the 1400s. However, as we see it today, it was largely reconstructed in 1844.
As with most Greek cities, any church that did not become a mosque was simply abandoned to the ravages of time. So given the turbulent history of the area, it’s nice to see that this Greek church has been carefully renovated and restored by the local authorities. As there are no Greek Orthodox Christians left for the church to function, the temple was officially inaugurated as a cultural monument in 2013. Entrance to the temple costs 20 TRY (price in summer 2022).
Some of the most interesting features of the church are the beautiful colors of the hagiographies and the carved golden details. Also, the elegant Corinthian columns and a unique spiral staircase leading to images of various saints. But the most impressive thing is the bishop’s marble seat which is decorated with carved golden birds.
4 Other notable buildings
As we mentioned above, most of the other Greek churches have since been converted into mosques. As far as we know, most mosques remain open throughout the day.
Among the top churches of Ayvalık that have been converted into mosques are the Saatli Cami, named after its clock tower, and the Çınarlı Cami. Both are located in the city centre and stand out with their impressive minarets. The Çınarlı Cami in particular has a beautiful interior, so we hope you will have the opportunity to go inside during your visit.
Although not widely known, there is another church that was never converted into a mosque. Although it cannot be compared to the Church of Taxiarches, the Ayazma Church has an interesting history and is worth visiting during your walk around the city.
The church was built in 1890 over a natural water source that the Christian population believed to be sacred. According to legend, the site was revealed to a 16-year-old girl in a dream. Hence, the church was named Ayazma. The water was believed to have healing properties and visitors from all over the Aegean region made a pilgrimage here to drink and bathe in it.
But after the displacement of the Greek population, the building was converted into an olive oil factory in the 1940s before it was finally abandoned. Over time, the building passed into disuse, and very recently in 2018 it has been opened to the public. In addition, the church retains a small portion of its original mosaic floor.
5 For the sunset where am I going?
For the best view of Ayvalık and the Aegean Sea, walk through the back streets in the southeastern part of the town, where you will find a hill. From there you can get clear views of the churches and mosques mentioned above, except for Cunda Island in the distance.
The most famous sunset viewpoint is known as Şeytan Sofrası, or “Satan’s Table”. It is located 9 km outside the city and no public transport goes there.
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